Acids in skin care

Alpha Hydroxy Acids

In the history of cosmetics, no other ingredient has had the impact of alpha hydroxy acids, AHA’s. Most AHA’s are present in fruits and vegetables but AHAs used in cosmetics are typically made in a lab.
AHAs have a lot of benefits when it comes to skin care. Helping skin conditions like oily, acne prone, sun damaged, dryness, and even hyperpigmentation. Some of the most popular of AHAs in skin care lactic acid, mandelic acid, and glycolic acid. Glycolic acid is molecularly the smallest acid of the AHAs. Because of its small size, it can penetrate more readily between cells.

AHAs are water soluble and work by loosening the bond between dead corneum cells by dissolving the part that connects the cells to each other. This affects the skin in ways like:

  1. smoothing the surface of dry, sun damaged, or aging skin, improving roughness and making wrinkles appear less deep.

  2. stimulating cell renewal, bringing younger and fresher cells to the surface more quickly. It also improves barrier function and therefore improves the hydration of the skin. Adequately hydrated skin helps all skin functions work more efficiently.

  3. helping loosen clogged pores by removing the dead skin buildup from comedones and other acne lesions. Consistent use of AHAs keeps dead skin from building up inside the follicle to prevent future breakouts.

  4. removing hyperpigmented cells helping to even out blotchy toned skin.

  5. using AHAs on the body to help improve moisture in dry and cold weather.

  6. improving barrier function of the epidermis and collagen content of the dermis.

Beta Hydroxy Acid

There’s really only one widely used BHA and that’s salicylic acid. Being a beta hydroxy, this differs in that it is oil soluble and works deeper into the pore. Salicylic acid is one of the few cosmetic ingredients that is FDA approved as an OTC ingredient. This also gets rid of dead skin buildup but does so deeper in the follicle compared to surface level like the AHAs. Salicylic also has these properties:

  • mild antibacterial

  • soothing and anti-inflammatory

  • treating mild forms of acne

  • good for rosacea

Questions to ask yourself

When trying to incorporate acids in your skincare you should ask yourself these questions:

  • Which acid should I be using?

  • Should I be using more than one type?

  • How often should I be using it?

  • What percentage should I be using?

  • Should it come in a cleanser, toner, serum?

Theres a lot of questions to be asked. If you are unsure or want to know if what you are using is right for your skin type, visit your local esthetician.